I was lucky enough to be on watch when we first sighted land. At first because there were no lights I thought my eyes might have been deceiving me but no…there was definatlty a land shaped silohaute under the stars.
As day broke it only became more atmospheric with the sun starting to rise as we sailed around the bottom of the island. The tops of the mountains were surrounded by thick mist and the whole place smelt amazingly of wet grass.
After 3000 miles we timed our arrival with oyster blew which was pretty crazy. The bay of virgins did not disappoint and without a doubt is the most amazing place I’ve ever landed. If you got a kid to paint a fairy tale land, fatu hiva wouldn’t be far off.
Once there we were treated to home made pastries for breakfast on metereoryte and then after cleaning the hull ( you would not believe how many critters got a free ride) we all walked up the hill to a local ladies house for lunch.
Desolait can only be described as the marquesas’ top entrepreneur. For 20 dollars a head she puts on a buffet lunch of local dishes….ceviche, goat in coconut milk, chicken, breadfruit and rice. All of which she gets off her own land and probably cost her about 20 dollars to put the whole thing on. She must average at least 5 or 6 yachts a day and has been doing this for 15 years she told me. I’m convinced she has a secret palace on the other half of the island.